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Givenchy

Some people have said what I do is all about couture, which it isn't. It's a ready-to-wear collection and I'll leave that couture thing to John Galliano...." Alexander McQueen, "The Face" 1994.
 
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A scant two years later, Givenchy's newest top man has had to swallow those words and the press is eating it up. "I'm a fresh bit of chicken for them," said McQueen in a recent article in "The Face." The 27-year-old, cockney cabbie's son, replaced John Galliano as the head of one of France's most blue-blooded fashion houses. He has produced a mere seven collections, all of which have given the middle finger to the fashion establishment. Take, for example, his "bumster" trousers cut low to reveal a new decolletage: the bumcrack, and the hybrid trouser-skirt called the "skouser."
McQueen produced his first collection on welfare money and followed it up with tantalizing offerings like "The Highland Rape" in which he put slashed lace dresses with tailored red, black and yellow tartan jackets, and "The Birds." The latter, a meditation on roadkill which featured models bound in Scotch tape imprinted with tire tracks, aroused accusations that McQueen was misogynistic. With his military crewcut and dentured grin, Alexander McQueen (whose real name is Lee) could not be a greater antithesis to the eternally elegant founder of the house, Hubert de Givenchy. Born in 1927, young Hubert was supposed to become a lawyer. His family, who had made their money in mines, frowned upon his fashion career. Givenchy was schooled in the tradition of Jacques Fath, Schiaparelli and, above all, Balenciaga. He opened his own house in 1951. His first collection of simple organdy blouses and cotton pleated skirts garnered acclaim as a fresh, new departure from Christian Dior's "New Look."
Hubert de Givenchy's designs leapt to instant international recognition when Audrey Hepburn wore his white dress in Billy Wilder's film "Sabrina." Hepburn, who became a personal friend and fan of Givenchy, wore his clothing in "Funny Face," "Love in the Afternoon," "Charade," and, of course, "Breakfast at Tiffany's." -- Clara Young

Givenchy

3, avenue Georges V 75008 Paris
Tel: 01. 44. 31. 50. 00 Fax: 01. 49. 52. 03. 62
www.givency.fr.com