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Chloe
The established and respected house of Chloé tends to draw its identity from its current designer rather than any consistent aesthetic. Founded in 1952 by Jacques Lenoir and Gaby Aghion, Chloé has fostered and produced such talent as Karl Lagerfeld (1965-83; 1992), Martine Sitbon (1987-1991) and most recently, the much-talked about Stella McCartney. Initially created with modernity, femininity and wearability in mind, the house quickly established itself as fashion's primary alternative to haute couture.
Lagerfeld was hailed in the 1960s for his gypsy/hippie-influenced slip dresses and blouses, and his "le flou" style. After Lagerfeld's departure in 1983, Chloé went into a nose-dive, going through a succession of designers and identities until Martine Sitbon arrived in 1987. Faced with the challenge of hoisting the ailing fashion house back to the forefront of prêt-à-porter, Sitbon wisely maintained Chloé's softly feminine classic shapes, but not without adding her own originality. Best known for her masculine tailored suits, flowing ankle-length chiffon skirts and pants, and bust-heaving tops, Sitbon was a success at Chloé. But when she left in 1991 to create her own line, Chloé once again foundered. In a desperate attempt to save the house, Lagerfeld was rehired in 1992 but critics were not impressed with what they viewed as a rehashing of past Chloé successes. By then, well in the throes of a mid-life crisis, Chloé's reputation rested almost solely on its fragrances: the eponymous classic Chloé and Narcisse.
In a blaze of publicity, Stella McCartney was hired in 1997 to resuscitate the label with a bit of that new, London hip that had recently exploded on the French fashion scene. As the daughter of Paul and Linda, the McCartney name certainly played a part in the media hype. Stella McCartney is a graduate of St. Martin's School. At the age of 15, she was already honing her skills on Savile Row and at Christian Lacroix. For her much-anticipated debut show in October 1997, the 24-year-old McCartney combined her fetish for antique touches like vintage lace and glass buttons with modern tailoring. The critics loved the saucy, girly and rock n' roll chic show and the line became an instant retail hit. McCartney's simple design philosophy - to produce the kind of clothes that she and her girlfriends like to wear- has kept Chloé's sales figures soaring, and it is now one of the biggest selling houses in Paris. Although rumors keep circulating that Stella is about to leave Chloé to set up her own business, there are no immediate signs of a future break-up, and so far the house and McCartney seem set a few more rounds of smooth sailing.
Chloé
54, Faubourg
Saint-Honoré 75008 Paris
Tel : 01 44 94 33 33 Fax : 01 47 42 60 50 |
